Step 6  Metalwork: floor channel, frame and door unit, top plate


A --- A, seen from above

233 x 308







2 henges

± 8 x 40 mm



Take the door apart. Drill holes in it for the bolds that hold the glass. Before placing the glass window, put a stripe of refractory sealant at the left- and right side (not at the top). Place the window on the two bars and press it into the sealant. Put in the bolds, nuts and rings that keep the window on its place.

The chink at the top of the window is to have just a bit of air coming in to keep the window clean.

Now glue fire cord at the inside of the door, exactly where it meets the frame (remember that the space between frame and door at the left side is 6 mm, and for the rest 3 mm).

The dimensions of the floor channel and the frame and door unit assume a core with outside dimensions of

220 x 301 x 506 mm. If these dimensions differ you need to adapt the blue figures in the pictures.

The 3D Sketchup files for the floorchannel and the frame&door unit are in the Roquetinho-folder.

Making the frame and door

Cut the pieces for the frame and the door out of 40 x 40 x 4 mm L-profile. First weld the frame, then the door. Drill 4 holes in the corners of the frame, in such a way the screws (that fix the frame to the stove) will get in the middle of the lintel / bottom slab as much as possible.

Make two 66 x 12 x 4 mm bars, these are to support the glass window. Drill a hole in the bars, where the vent is going to be attached. Weld the bars at the inside of the door.

Weld the 2 henges to the frame and to the door, making sure that at the top, the bottom and at the right side the space between door and frame is 3 mm, and at the left side 6 mm.

Making the floor channel

Out of 40 x 20 x 1,5 mm profile, cut a piece of 306 mm and one of 24 mm and cut out the triangles for the 25 x 25 tube to fit in.

Out of 25 x 25 x 1,5 mm profile, you cut a piece of 85 mm. From two sides at the bottom, take out 17 mm. From the upper 25 mm you take out triangles (see picture).

Weld the parts together. Mind that where the sides of the 25 x 25 tube meet the 40 x 20 pipe there's 2 chinks that need to be tightened.

Cut two triangles from a 53 x 35 mm plate and weld it onto the 25 x 25 pipe. Now fit the channel in the firebox to make sure the dimensions are okay, then add the 158 x 43 mm front plate. This front plate fits in the two 4 mm notches in front of the corner bricks.



small strip to tighten the chink


Make the vent out of a piece of 0,5 mm thick steel. Drill holes in the side that correspond with the holes in the two bars. Attach the cord at the top, and the cupboard knob. Attach the vent to the door with bolds and nuts; tighten it just as much it's not too tight or too loose when you open it.


fire cord



In a steel plate of 75 x 25 x 4 mm you drill holes as indicated on the picture. Then you cut it with a small grinder and smoothen the edges with a file. On the exact spot on the door, you drill a hole and fix a bold in it on which you attach the lock. A strip of steel is welded to the frame to accept the grip of the lock.

Top frame and top plate

   Steel top frame

At the top of the bell comes a frame made out of  30 x 30 x 3 mm L-profile, to improve solidity of the bell. The gap between the top and the frame is only 1 mm, so it needs to be welded with care. Dimensions are 558 x 558 mm at the outside, the square opening at the inside is 498 x 498 mm.

   Top plate

The top of the bell is an 8 mm steel plate with dimensions 490 x 490 mm.

refractory sealant

fire cord

2 bars that support the window 66x12x4


bar 66x12x4



2 nuts 3 mm high for distance

glass 185 x 185 x 4 mm


vent 0,5 mm steel


plate 53x35